Early morning, we set off on a 300 km drive towards Da Lat, a lofty elevation of 1,500 meters in Lam Dong Province in the central highlands of Vietnam. The name Da Lat originates from the hill tribe inhabitants of this region. It literally means Stream of the Lat people. The journey to Da Lat took us through Bien Hoa Highway winding through rice fields, banana farms and rubber plantations, reinforcing the diligent nature of the Viets. The grubby vegetation in rural Cambodia seems to almost immediately turn to lush green cultivated fields in Viet Cong. I couldn’t help but feel that the sand-dusted and sun-charred landscape contributed reasonable in justifying nd sometimes strengthening the infamous innate Cambodian tardiness. Crossing into Vietnam, High power lines traced thin Khmer lines in the distance, implying an order of magnitude of development and consumption over war-ravaged Cambodia.
Almost 200 kms from Saigon enroute Da Lat we stopped over at Bao Loc, a delightfully scenic town with acres and acres of mulberry fields, tea plantations and coffee estates. An 18 km detour from the centre of the town took us to the Dam Ri water falls. Its not an exceptionally high fall but a glass enclosed elevator running a dozen or so feet away from the fall journeys the awe-stricken traveller through the course of the fall into heavenly oblivion away from the scruffiness of daily life. Completely drenched and eager to splurge on the forces of nature we resumed our expedition through rural Viet Cong. Nearing Da Lat we passed through several exotic French villas and wooden country houses much like the Swiss chalets found in the Alps. These structures in all their architectural splendour give a distinct Mediterranean look to the city. Known for decades as both "Le Petite Paris" and the "City of Eternal Spring", Da Lat is blessed year round with favourable weather amidst crisp, cool mountain air. Undeniably the most popular getaway among locals and foreigners alike, it is no wonder this place is dubbed the Mecca of romance.
Five kms from the centre of the town nestled among tranquil hills, cascading waterfalls and serene lakes enshrouded by pine trees is Thung Lung Tinh Yeu or ‘Valley of Love’. At the floor of this enchanting valley past a series of small dirt paths used mostly for horses is Da Thien Lake. Recently constructed steps make the short but otherwise steep trek highly accessible. As I saddled myself in my boat and grabbed my oars I felt this unknown energy from within sear through my skin and unite with the force of the universe around me in all fervour and suddenly I was endless and infinite. Nirvana. And how. A moment of bliss carried on forever. A trail back through cordial bamboo woods lead us to an old and exquisite pagoda watched over by an elderly monk. The sharp furrows across his aged face, his conversant smile and kind, knowledgeable eyes melted forth into my soul as he called upon Buddha to bless me with strength and wisdom. Exalted, we moved on.
A 10 minute drive away from the valley, tucked away beautifully somewhere between blooming green grasses and silver- blue skies is one of the most amazing golf courses one might ever see.Since the opening of Da Lat’s Pine Lake Golf Course in the 1920’s as the first ever golf club in the region, Da Lat emerged once again as the ideal golf retreat in Southeast Asia with its revival and expansion after the war in early 1994. Not far from the golf course lies the Xuan Huong Lake one of the many lakes for which the town is famed. Named after Ho Xuan Huong, a 17th century poet this man made lake measures around 5 square kms and is shaped like a crescent moon. The site, which holds the lake today, is said to have housed the ancient settlements of the indigenous people of the Lam Dong highlands. Unfortunately Da Lat today fights to sustain a dwindling population of its colourful, vibrant ethnic minorities. The people seemingly have lost their semi-nomadic lifestyle and now live in what seems to be enforced poverty. It wont be too long before they are integrated into ordinary Vietnamese life.
In the centre of the town, very close to the hotel is Da Lat’s handicrafts museum. A special wing solely dedicated to elegant Vietnamese embroidery holds hundreds of delicately laced wall hangings depicting scenes from ordinary Vietnamese life, some of them measuring 10x15 ft in size. With half a dozen artisans working on one piece these colossal works of art sell for anything between US$14,000 and US$25,000.
One of Da Lats charm, as we learnt on our long meanders around town, is the hard working but remotely laid-back way of living of the local people. On any given day, from early morning to late at night, Da Lat's Central market is bustling with activities. Unlike most markets in Vietnam, Da Lat's market has an open walkway where people can ramble along quite comfortably. The Da Latians are very genial and forthcoming people. We spent a long time at the local market answering curious queries from the locals ranging from cotton sarees and large black eyes to Hinduism. The family where we shopped for souvenirs adopted us. With a grandmother and half a dozen brothers and sisters, it was a neat bargain. Addresses swapped, hugs exchanged and still in touch. Vasudeiva Kutumbakam indeed. Two days in Da Lat, and it was time to leave already. A day and a half of Vietnam was all we had. The Cu Chi Tunnels, 80kms from Saigon is an extensive network of underground bunkers, living quarters, and storage facilities for the Vietcong during the war and that’s exactly where we were headed.
Wednesday, September 13, 2006
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